Don Matthys’ USS Reliant part 1

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NOTE: This article dates to 2000 and this is all we have for photos!  Notes refer to the original AMT issue of the kit.
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AMT/ERTL USS Reliant lighting & super-detailing notes

See the notes below for supplies, tools, and references

Engine/Pylon Assembly

Refer to kit instructions Step 1:

  • Open aft thruster area on warp nacelles. #60 drill & Dremel small burr.
  • Open magnatomic crystal for modified Blue T1 LED* or clear plexi glass rod insertion. Use 3/16″ drill.
  • Open Aft Warp Nacelle Nav strobe for modified micro mini blue LED* Aside from opaquing the interior, set aside parts 11,20, 12, 21 until final assembly.

Warp Nacelle Support struts:

Refer to kit instructions Step 2 figures A & B

  • Cut Evergreen patterned sheet (#2030) three stripes. Lay on strips .30 from edge. Parts 13 & 14. Glue together Pylon supports. This thickening is more accurate towards the actual Motion Control Miniature used in the production of Star Trek II. The supports will allow wires to run down the pylon supports. Do the same for the upper support for the Phaser Cannon supports.
  • SPECIAL TOOL: 1/8 paper punch for Flush Intake Vents trim . Cut the Evergreen once again and reverse and inlay the outside to the finished edge. Sand / file smooth Warp pylon and Weapons support Pylons edged fore and aft.

The Saucer

Refer to kit instructions Step 1

  • Drill out windows and ports along saucer edge, use #60 drill bit( If your are going by the General Plans it is important to drill the portholes at a level higher than detailed on the plastic model kit), engineering hull front, ports below bridge, bottom of saucer hull. Cut out long windows with a Dremel #xxx cutting bit. Clean long windows with X-acto Jewelers type size pointed flat file.
  • Remove lights (but leave light base) navigation and running lights all around hull. Drill holes with #50 bit.

Opaque the Hull and Warp Nacelles:

Refer to kit instructions Step 3

  • Now is a good time to wash the model parts in mild detergent to remove the mold release agents
  • Mask these areas: Inside of inboard warp nacelle ( use pattern of grill on outside of part, trim and apply to other inboard warp nacelle part). Mask with thin disc inside of lower hull part to allow illuminate bottom impulse drive dome.
  • Spray paint black the inside of the main hull parts, warp nacelles, Space/ Planetary Sensor Dome and the Bridge. Insure the sprayed areas to be opaque by holding the part up to a bright light, allow to dry.
  • Spray paint the same parts again with white or silver.
  • Fill in the horizontal windows with clear urethane resins. Also the thrusters areas cut from the rear of the warp nacelles. Recommends Resins: Enviro Tex, Ultra Clear (Micromark tools)

USS_Reliant_Aft_Port_t1

Your Lighting and Electronics

  • Set up your lighting system off the model on an outline of the ship on cardboard. Test your system with all the components and lamps connected and running.
  • Small T-1 type 1/8″ LEDs, I find, are still too large and out of scale to most the Movie style starships. For a better scale appearance file away material of the LED on the top of it. To do this carefully mount the LED in a slow speed drill and run it against a file until the LED top is at least half the diameter.
  • Countersink a drill bit into the plastic (inside) to fit the outside diameter of 3mm to fit the modified T1( 3mm) LED*. Be careful not to go all the way through and test fit often.

Note:

  • Nav Position resistors LED Flasher #2 200k ohm (Slow)
  • Nav Strobe resisters LED Flasher #2 150K ohm (Faster)

About LightSheet

LightSheet was used to illuminate the inside of AMTs USS Reliant’s Warp Nacelles. The white styrene plastic is translucent enough to allow the LightSheet to shine through. The components of LightSheet for this project is two .5 x 5 inch strips and a lighting module wired parallel to the rest of my LED flashers and lamps components. A 6 volt, 700ma power supply was used for the entire lighting system.

The first step in installation of LightSheet is to opaque the inside of the Warp Nacelles. (Refer to kit instructions illustrations, Step 3) Mask these areas: Inside of inboard warp nacelle, use pattern of grill on outside of part, trim and apply to other inboard warp nacelle part). Spray paint the inside of the, Warp Nacelles black. Insure the sprayed areas to be opaque by holding the part up to a bright light, allow to dry. Spray paint the same parts again with white or silver. Remove the masking tape

When you install your lighting system keep all of the wiring as low as possible to the bottom of the main hull. This will clear the space for maximum interior light transmission throughout. Use Superglue to secure wires and circuit boards to the bottom of the lower hull. The LightSheet electronics Module was glued to the bottom of the main hull several inches away form the impulse engines. The wires then run out to the Warp Nacelles.

To place the LightSheet Strips in the model temporarily tape in place over the unpainted engine area. Solder on the leads to the wires and permanently secure with black electrical tape over the LightSheet. The outside of the Warp Nacelle can be tinted with a clear colored paint like Tamiya clear blue. Paint the raised ribs black. A very realistic effect is achieved with even and cool lighting of these areas.

Sanding the Upper and Lower Hull Parts

Refer to kit instructions Step 3

  • Temporally white glue the upper and lower hulls with white glue like Elmer’s. Clamp and let dry. drill to or ream to final final size ports to fit .050 fiber optics.
  • Sand or file away paint and clear resin residue from parts of the upper and lower hulls especially at the glue joints.
  • Separate the hulls, Clean away the white glue.
  • Install 1/4 to 1/2 inch .050 dia. fiber optics. Super Glue in place from the inside.
  • Sand or file away the flared fiber optics ends flush from parts of the upper and lower hulls.

Plexiglass Plastic Disc acts as One Big Fiberoptic

Refer to kit instructions Step 3 & 6.

  • This tip helps to eliminate 4 lamps around the front hull edge by the use of a 1/8th inch plexiglass disc. The plexiglass will transmit the light from one lamp located in a notch in the the center of the disc that will also serve as illumination to the center of the hull as well.
  • Cut the disk in a semi-circle with a radius of 8 1/2 inches conform to the same angle to where the upper hull steps up to the engineering section of the Reliant kit. For my disc a band saw was used for cutting.
  • Place the Plexiglass disc in the center of the main hull and epoxy or super glue into place.
  • Clear part #104 Sensor Dome clear insert will also do the same as the plexiglass for the Space/Planetary Sensor Dome lights. Drill out the center of clear part #104 and position one grain of wheat bulb as to where it shows to be brightest by aligning the lamp filament up and down. When positioned Superglue into place. Drill a hole in the bottom of the hull assembly to run the wires through.

Bridge Lighting

Refer to kit instructions Step 3

  • Assemble as per instructions opaque and paint white the interior. Trace the outline of the bridge assembly positioned onto the main hull.
  • Drill the top of the main hull to fit one grain of wheat bulb for the bridge lights.
  • Flare the ends of nine.030 fiber optics cut 3/4 inch long, sand one side of the flare flat. Superglue into the recessed areas of the tracing. When set flat sand the other side of the fiber optics until the bridge fits into place.
  • Drill holes for the nav position light and docking port lights. Install fiber optics, bend and point the nav light fiber optic towards the lamp. Test the lamp with the bridge in place and cement.

Shuttle Bay Doors Details

Refer to kit instructions Step 4

  • Clear parts #100 can be detailed for lighting effects and more accurate doors.
  • Cut and file into shape a plastic sheet pattern that will fit into the furthest recess of the clear part #100 Shuttle Bay doors. With the shape finalized trace its pattern onto .10 —.15 styrene sheet plastic.
  • Scribe the Shuttle Bay Doors 1/8 inch apart with 9 lines or use an Evergreen Styrene Sheet of similar spacing. Cut out and file and sand to fit into the clear parts #100 Shuttle Bay Doors and adhere into place.
  • The shuttle Bay area on part #100 (clear) shows illuminated areas that can best be represented in a dashed pattern masked in the exterior recessed area of the clear part. Cut strips of 1/16 inch wide by 1/8 inch stripes. Place them on the clear part # 100 at 1/16 intervals.
  • Mask the interior (exposed to lighting lamp) of part # 100 with 1/8 strip masking tape. Opaque with black both inside and out of #100. Paint white the exterior (exposed to space) Blue tint to the docking bay area “panel lights” will be achieved with Tamiya clear blue. Glue part # 100 into place.

Install your Lighting System

When you install your lighting system keep all of the wiring as low as possible to the bottom of the main hull. This will clear the space for maximum interior light transmission throughout. Use Superglue to secure wires and circuit boards to the bottom of the lower hull.

Impulse Driver Cores

Refer to kit instructions Step 3

  • Clear parts 100 and 101 should get a light coat of gloss while to diffuse light from the inside. At this point you can clear coat in Tamiya Clear Blue the outside and detail paint white the raised details of the parts. Glue into pace. Mask for final painting.

Main Hull Enclosure

Refer to kit instructions Step 3

  • File and sand away the clear resin residue and most of the annoying ridges from the hull outside edge.
  • Insure all paint , clear resin and super glue is cleaned from the seam edges of the upper and lower hull parts.
  • Install the LEDs and connect Bridge lamp on upper hull part in close proximity of the bottom hull. Dry fit into place.
  • Give the electronics one last systems test, make final adjustment or replace components accordingly.
  • Make sure wires to Warp Nacelles run out to there proper places.
  • Cement and clamp into place the Main Hull haves. Allow to dry.

Sensor Array and Supports

Refer to kit instructions Step 3 and plans.

  • Drill a hole and countersink (on the inside) to fit modified Micro-Mini LED as a Nav Strobe on top of part #1 Long Range Sensor Array.
  • The indented panel on parts 2,3, and 4 are Emergency Flush Vents. Cut out and insert new panels with Evergreen plastic prescribed pattern #2030.
  • Cut Evergreen plastic prescribed pattern #2030. Lay on strips .30 from edge on part #4. Glue together Sensor Array Braces. This thickening of the supports will allow wires to run up to the Long Range Sensor Array. SPECIAL TOOL: 1/8 paper punch for round end trim . Cut the Evergreen once again and reverse and inlay the outside to the finished edge. Cement and clamp parts 2,3, and 4. Sand / file smooth the edges Sensor Array Brace.
  • File or sand the opening of part #1 Long Range Sensor Array top to accommodate the wider braces, until a proper fit.
  • When fitting the Sensor Array Braces to the Phaser Cannon special fitting is involved. The thickening of all of the support pylons throws off the fit of these components. Trim, cut and putty and file accordingly. NOTE:It is also advisable to paint and mask the Emergency Flush Vents bottom (part # 4) by painting instructions. This will be a difficult area to reach in final painting of the ship.

Final Engine Assembly

Refer to kit instructions Step 1,6 & 7.

  • To accommodate the wider pylon supports widen the parts 20 / 11, 12 / 21 where the pylons fit into the warp engines.
  • Remove the inside of Warp Nacelles masking tape.(parts #20 /21)
  • Superglue in place a small Grain O’ Wheat 6V lamp to the interior of the clear resin filled Aft Thrusters of parts 11 & 12. Connect one 22 ohm resister in series.
  • Superglue in pace one modified blue 5mm (T3/4)LED* in place for the Magnatomic Amplification Crystal to parts 20 & 21. Solder one 75 ohm resister to the LED positive side of the LED for the 6V system.
  • Place Light Sheet strip against the inside Warp Nacelle. Secure in place. (Tamiya Clear Blue will give the Nacelle light a blue color)

On to part 2!