Jim Brooks’ Classic Enterprise

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The two most obvious features of this new kit are its size and the fact that it is a “cutaway” model. On further examination, though, other differences between this one and the original 18″ Enterprise become apparent. Apparently based on drawings published in a back issue of FineScale Modeler, most of the errors (glaring and subtle) from the original model have been corrected. The nacelles are tapered and their method of attachment to the secondary hull is much improved. The bridge and superstructure (decks 2 and 3) are now the appropriate shape. The areas on either side of the secondary hull (where the pennant decals are located) are now recessed as they should be, though the corresponding structure on the bottom still isn’t.

CONSTRUCTION

Assuming construction of the model as “non-cutaway,” the first step is to glue the two halves of each assembly together. One crucial point: glue the internal cutaway structural piece (the one showing decks, corridors, cabins, etc.) in its place inside the primary hull near the juncture of the two halves of the saucer. This piece acts as internal reinforcement, crucial when sanding the seam where the left and right (or port and starboard) halves of the primary hull meet.

Most of the parts fit together fairly well with a minimum of filling and sanding. The major exception to this is the seam where the saucer section halves join. This isn’t a big problem topside since that area of the hull is mostly devoid of detail. The underside, though, presents problems. Getting a clean and even joint requires obliterating some of the raised radial detail (i.e. the three concentric rings). The solution is either taking all the raised detail out with sandpaper and scribing the rings (the more accurate method) or recreating the sanded away portion with the application of extremely fine gauge (rounded) styrene strips.

MODIFICATIONS

In addition to the normal construction of the model, certain modifications are necessary to make the kit accurate.

The exhaust vents — the dark rectangular “pads” on either side of each warp nacelle just forward of the rear — have to be fixed. The most obvious problem is that Ertl has only placed one exhaust on each nacelle, outboard side. Also, one of the vents has a beveled edge. Create matching vents on the inboard sides of the engines by cutting styrene square tubing (whose width matches that of the one accurate vent)in half and sanding down to the proper depth. Glue the resulting pieces to the nacelle, fill each end and sand. Cut to fit the face of each new exhaust with textured sheet styrene and glue to the styrene assemblies.

The beveled vent is modified in much the same way except that you cut a corner off the square stock.

The navigation reflector supplied with the kit is basically the right diameter, but the wrong shape. Basically a shallow cone, it should be a shallow dome instead. There are also no raised concentric rings. I cheated on this one. I happened to have a main reflector from one of the original pressings (circa ’67). On the 18″ model it was too big for a production version, but it was perfect for the 22″ model. All that was needed was to cut down its mounting shaft so the back of the reflector would fit close to the secondary hull bulkhead.

Although I didn’t have time to tackle it, the hanger deck is missing detail and the clamshell doors need to be toned down.

PAINTING

Probably the most debated subject associated with the original series Enterprise, I chose to go with a color approximating its production color — a soft green. Taking a hint from Mike Okuda and Rick Sternbach’s painting guide in the 1701-D model, I chose Model Master Duck Egg Blue as the base color. Darker highlights and details were painted Model Master Neutral Gray. Other colors were white, copper, silver, red and green (running lights), and black.

The two arrow-shaped details on the underside of the primary hull were dry-brushed with neutral gray so that they were darkest on the outline, fading out into the center of the shape.

Although I’ve never been real comfortable with the lines which have been fairly conclusively demonstrated to be on the production version of the 11 foot filming miniature (the version I chose to replicate), I accept that they were there. On the other hand, because they were probably lighter than portrayed in Ed’s restoration and the soundstage lights very likely washed them out when photographed, I decided to leave even a suggestion of a grid pattern off of my model. There was another reason, too. At the 22″ kit’s scale, too much detail — like this — would end up calling attention to its being a model.

DECALS

I didn’t even bother with the Ertl decals. We all know better than that, right? Instead, I used the Web Games sheet. Although I had a great deal of trouble getting the large registry numbers in the proper position, that was my problem, not one created by the decals themselves. I don’t have the recent newsletter at hand so I don’t remember the name of the gentleman who creates those sheets, but he does an excellent job. And I think that the fonts are the correct width.

FINAL NOTE

You can see the results and all in all, I think it turned out very well. If deadlines hadn’t been looming in the background, I probably would have done things like correct the hanger deck inaccuracies and added some exhaust stains. But it’s a good kit and several orders of magnitude better than that godawful piece of garbage we’ve had to deal with since the time the series was still on the air. My next project is to take the spare copy of the kit that I was given and create a second pilot version

Jim Brooks