Chris Ford’s Enterprise C part 3
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Warp Engines
I decided to create a few destruction details on the warp engines as well. Hey, I’m claiming artistic licence ! The top pieces were first drilled and fitted with 1.8mm LED running lights (red on the back end for port, green for starboard and amber for both front ends.
A 5mm red LED was used to light the Bussard Collector. Then, using the same technique of “splatter-coated” brass pieces, I covered the holes from the inside in the same manner as the saucer. I then painted the outer sections because if I tried to paint it while fitted to the rest of the model, I could accidentally mark or damage the model. I had left 2 holes in the starboard engine uncovered, one on top behind the Bussard Collector and one on the lower outer section.
For each I built up interior detailing so when looking at it when lit, you can see right through into the glowing red collector. I detailed the lower outer hole with bass guitar string pieces (to resemble coiled conduit) and broken brass wire.
On the inside, in an upright position, sit six 5mm red LED’s with the stems cut off. (They do absolutely nothing). However, in the midst of them, sits a 3mm self flashing yellow LED which has been wired to the collision lights wiring. Now when the room lights are turned off and the model’s lighting turned on, the yellow LED light passing through the red ones creates an orange pulsating colour, appearing as if damaged; not the least that something is going on in there.
The blue EL Filament was finally added, wired up and the two engine halves glued together. A small amount of model putty was used to fill the join, then sanded, re-primed and painted.
Lastly, the protruding colour coded wires from the engine pylons were connected to the corresponding wires from the engines and the engines themselves were glued to the pylons using cyanoacrylate glue.
Deflector Shield
The final detail to add was the deflector shield. I painted it Monza Electric Blue (car paint from Halfords) on the inside only. I then took a small parabolic reflector from inside a small portable torch. I created a plug from hot glue for the back end of it, into which was set a small grain of wheat lamp (6 volt) wrapped in a bit of blue theatrical gel material to make an even bluer glow. The parabolic reflector helps to spread the light. A tiny bit of grinding to the reflector allowed it to be easily fit and adhered to the back of the deflector dish, but still allowed the deflector dish to attach to the model via its built – in “guides”. The biggest surprise I got was when turned the power on to check for light leaks. There wasn’t one, which is a testament to the manufacturers in producing such an excellent kit. To this day, I haven’t needed to glue the shield in place. It snapped it easily and perfectly. No ones knows any different to look at it.
Painting
I tried to follow the manufacturers instructions in painting the model as close as possible, although a lot of the exact paint numbers are not available in this country. I suppose the box art was a useful guide. I found when I had mixed the base coat (as per instructions), it appeared too dark a grey, so I “invented” my own paler shade of off white. Halfords car paint was used only on the shield interior.
Weathering
All of the weathering and smoke damage detailing was finished on to each sub-section as it was completed. I discovered on early test pieces, the amount of “smudging” pressure on the pencil & charcoal markings would probably result in some part of the model becoming damaged. Once the added decals were set overnight, I gave each sub-section a dark but thinned down wash. This took away the “newness look” from the model’s paint scheme. I then took a “B” writing pencil (as opposed to “HB”) and lightly scribbled around each of the holes as well as on other sections of the model. I rubbed my finger over this graphite, much the way an artist would shade a portrait using charcoal. This gave a soft, scorched look to the edge of the damaged area, almost airbrush like. I then took an artists black charcoal and repeated the process, allowing some of it to radiate outwards from the hole. I did this all over the sections in various sized proportions. This too was rubbed in and the effect was superb. Very much like air-brushing, but without the mess. However, I did nurse a few finger blisters for about 10 days as a result of all the rubbing. When I felt I had added enough of the charcoal damage/smoke effect, each completed section was sprayed with fixative, which not only set the decals but also makes the charcoal effect permanent. After all of the sub-sections were permanently glued into place, I sprayed the entire model with a semi-gloss protective coat.
Presentation
A section of brass tubing was secured into the lower belly of the model and into a decorative wooden stand, with the wiring passing through it. I constructed a black ash effect, glass fronted cabinet 18″ x 18″ x 30″ to house the model in. I’m still working on the background of a “tear in time” (whatever that looks like).
Presentation Update – Using a toothbrush, I “sprayed” some luminescent white paint onto a black surface installed above and around the model. This is lit via an out-of-view,12 ” ultraviolet lamp. With the room lights out, the effect is amazing. Cool!
