Building the “Doppelganger” Dove by Davey Happyfellow

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Building the “Doppelganger” Dove

BCI Gemco’s 1/72nd scale resin model

by Davey Happyfellow

PART 1 of 26

Standard Davey Happyfellow disclaimer: Some people don’t like Davey Happyfellow. But don’t worry, be happy!

Hi, there, kit builders, Davey Happyfellow here with an in-depth, unappreciated piece on yet another out-of-box experience.

Please note that I use the phrase ‘kit builders’ because there are some of you out there who are not fit to walk on the same styrene and resin dusted floors as me. I am a professional kit builder. I only build professional kits. The rest of you scum of the scale modeling earth we’ll just refer to as scratchbuilders.

Lets’ get one thing straight. If you hope to win a bronze or a merit at Wonderfest (the only awards worth winning), you have to be able to open a box and match the parts to the instruction sheet. If you feel it’s necessary to avoid the whole hobby shop experience and frequent art and hardware stores for parts that can be shaped into an approximation of what you need, you are a scratchbuilder and you’re going about it all the wrong way.

In this 26 part series that Steve has graciously agreed to publish unedited, I’ll be showing you how to get a kit out of the box and assemble it – you will not need to scratchbuild anything.

I’ve chosen a subject that you hear very little about – the Dove from the movie “Journey to the Far Side of the Sun” or “Doppelganger” as it was known in Europe. Incidentally, “Doppelganger” is a much better movie title since it’s German for something that knocks down very tall metallic structures. If you’ve seen the movie, you’ll know what I’m talking about. Besides “Doppelganger” sounds so much more sophisticated than “Journey to Wherever.”

Step 1: Gathering the right tools.

Tools are important. I myself have every tool known to man and I always use them to impress people like you, in case you were not already impressed with me and were not in awe of my incredible skill (unlikely, I know). However, unless you are going to sink to the lowest depths and scratchbuild, all you need to get started is an X-Acto knife, some wet’n’dry paper, putty (I like Testor’s Red) and some Soupy Glue.

This last item may be hard to find but I really recommend it if you can find it. It’s actually a Cyanoacrylate liquid that you may find on hooks in a drug store. It works great for gluing resin parts together but take care, this stuff can stick all kinds of things together. My advice is to go to your hobby store and ask for Soupy Glue because, if you ask for Cyanoacrylate, they’ll think you’re a scratchbuilder and try and sell you extra stuff like balsa wood and RC car parts.

Micro-Mark has a great mail order catalog with lots of nifty tools for the model builder. I strongly suggest you get hold of a copy and identify all the tools you want. Then put the catalog away because you can’t afford any of that stuff and besides, you’ll need to get to my overwhelming level of expertise before you are fit to use any of them.

Oh, yes, you’ll need paints and a brush. More on this later

Step 2: Opening the box.

This particular resin kit comes in a stout cardboard box with lots of bubble wrap. There are several options for tools here. Being the outstanding modeler that I am, I use the Acme Electric Box Opener Model # 005674A (see fig. 1). It’s only $159.99 from the Acme Box Company and well worth it. I’ve saved several dollars in Band-Aids by using this tool for the past 5 years

On the other hand, you can get by with using an X-Acto knife with a sharp #11 blade, steel reinforced gloves (optional) and a large vice to hold the box steady (also optional). For simplicity, I have shown the box opening procedure without the gloves and the vice but be advised, I am a professional, you should not try this at home without the proper safety precautions (having the local number for 911 posted in your work area is a practical idea).

Identify the the tape that holds the box shut. Do not confuse it with tape that the packer has used to adhere the picture that shows the box contents.

Using the X-Acto knife, carefully cut the tape securing the box. Remember, you only have one chance to get this right! Place the box on a level surface. Hold the knife in your right hand with your left hand firmly on the box (see fig. 2).

If you are left handed, reverse this and I don’t mean trying to cut the knife using the box. If the knife does not seem to cut, check that you are cutting with the pointed end (see fig. 3).

Once all the tape is cut, using both hands, open the box and look inside. Do not touch anything yet (we’ll cover that in Step 4 – Taking Stuff Out of the Box and Step 5 – Matching the Parts to the Instruction Sheet).

If the kit comes with bubble wrap, you will not need to save it. It’s not part of the kit and you have no use for it (unless you like making that popping sound). However, it is strongly suggested that you keep the box and the packing material. I’m not really sure why. I just know that many kit builders feel that empty boxes retain value and will someday be worth a fortune on E-Bay. I, on the other hand, have better things to do with the boxes – like shipping my wonderfully assembled creations to shows all across the country and storing my many awards.

Taking care in this vital step of kit building is what separates you from scratchbuilders. Scratchbuilders can never experience the ultimate pleasure of opening a box and seeing a selection of pre-made parts ready for assembly (some painting required). All a scratchbuilder can ever hope to see is a pile of junk that he/she hopes can be molded into something that resembles what you see pictured on the top of your box.

In part 2 of this seemingly never-ending story, we’ll digress a little and talk about opening kit boxes that are covered with clear wrapping and offer some tips on how to deal with paper cuts. I also talk more about what a great kitbuilder I am and why you should shun scratchbuilders as if they were the scum of the earth.

We’ll actually start assembling parts in Part 10 of this series. I know you’re looking forward to reading what I have to say. I know I am!

To be continued . . .

Davey Happyfellow