Building the AMT Refit Enterprise by Don Matthys part 8

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FINAL MAJOR ASSEMBLY

If you have been following this WIP journal all these parts in sub assemblies are hanging together loose with wire and tape. A final check out of the lighting is made and I now commit to gluing it all together at last. Several years ago when building the TMP Enterprise NCC-1701 I built a jig to hold the model in alignment while gluing. I found it in the garage reay to use once more again.

Briefly stated; to build a gluing jig I used the plans drawings enlarged as a template for measurements. Thick plastic scraps where glued onto a large 10″x20″ piece of sheet stock. The model is laid on its back. The Primary Hull raised on supports. The Warp Nacelles fit into parallel channels. All this is necessary to account for the modifications of the wider engine struts and wires that fit into the the glue slots. Even without wires and lighting the kit is difficult to align and fit while gluing.

The glue I used is Tenax 7R, a fast drying plastic weld glue. Highly recommended and strong.

Gluing into place in this order:

  • Warp Engines halves together
  • Warp Engines to struts
  • Struts to Engineering Hull
  • Set aside to dry
  • Primary Hull section top to bottom Clamping tools like 2″ mini c-clamps and clothespins where used throughout.

PAINTING PREPARATION

The original studio model has a smooth surface. Any texture and panel detailing shade variations was done with paints. My model is a smooth model as it was issued in the early 80’s. Current AMT issues of the kit has a textured surface. AND IT IS WRONG! On another model earlier I manage to remove that panel texture on the kit surface. But, it took a lot of priming and sanding to smooth it out. Any modelers wanting to finish t he model like I do should try to get rid of the panel textures should do this first thing before any detailing and assembly.

Putty and Sanding:

The putty I like to use is Dr. Microtools spot putty. It dries fast and is easy to sand down. I laid this into the seams that involved the final assembly during the last log entry. Another putty I like to use for buildup and contours is a two part “on a stick” epoxy putty called Quick Aluminum. It sets up in about 20 minutes with enough time to smooth it into shape and it’s sandable in about an hour. The epoxy putty was used at the smooth joins at the engine struts to the Warp Engines and engineering hull and to fill the gaps at the Impulse Engine and Connecting Dorsal.

Sanding was done progressively with 240grit, 320, 400, 600, 1000 grit. All wet sanded. (Avoid getting water into the interior) Then a rub over with 500 grade fine grade steel wool. (Dry) Finally a plastic cleaner compound ( ‘Meguiars Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner’, 8 fl. oz. is a lifetime supply. great for aircraft canopies and car wind shields) was used to polish clear the Botanical Garden windows, the Recreation Room windows and the VIP Lounge. Even unlit I can see the interior details now.

Avoiding getting water into the interior, I next washed away all the sanding residue and cleaned out all the engraved panel lines with sharp end of a toothpick. This done I am now ready to add the final small details.

DETAILS

MAIN GANGWAY HATCH, PRIMARY HULL (Port side)

This is a raised rectangular detail relief measuring 9mm x 7mm located on the center port side of the Primary Hull. Referring to plans, I cut from a .010 plastic sheet the inside for the slide open doors. Rounded cut at the corners. On the model kit surface I scribed a 5mm long vertical line. Then I cemented the raised cut out door frame in place and then cemented 2 small strip details .05mm x 3mm vertically on both sides of the frames.

CONNECTING DORSAL:

 

At the connecting dorsal to the Primary Hull I placed the scribed sheet plastic that was crafted into shape previously in February. Here it is again: detail to add to the hull connecting dorsal is at the top which has ine engraved parallel lines. With the pattern provided from Star Fleet Assembly Manual 4, I transcribed it to prescribed sheet styrene, .015 thick with 1/32″ spacing (1mm). I kept the area larger than needed on top. The edges must be trimmed to fit up snug against the Primary Hull.

At the aft end of the connecting dorsal and the bottom of the Impulse Engine (Kit part #7) Epoxy putty was filled into to complete the model joint connection and shaped with the Impulse Engine dry fitted into place.

Impulse Engine:

I used the kit provided part #7. I prefer to use a wet slide color decal instead for the detail. (More of this in the future on markings) First I mask with masking tape the inside and outside of the area to let light through the plastic. Then paint it opaque with black. Removed the inside mask when. Then glue it to the ship and putty in the gaps and file and sand when dry.

PHOTON TORPEDO LAUNCHERS

I merely inserted this piece to check the fit and insured that the light block works behind it. It was removed for painting separately later.

DEFLECTOR DISH HOUSING

First I made sure the the join of the new resin Deflector Housing to the Engineering Hull was flat as possible. Both surfaces was sanded flat with a wide sanding block. I made a light block to fit the inside diameter of the Engineering Hull I glued in a strip of .015 mill plastic strip with a width of 1/4 inch with about a 1/8 inch protruding out to the front. Then it was panted black.

Next I located by plans the 8 thrusters that glow yellow on the Navigational Deflector housing new resin part. A graphic that will be made into a colored decal later was used to locate the drilled holes that will fit the .020 mill fiber optics. A 3/8 fiber optic was inserted into place and sanded flat and smooth on the exterior. The fit of the new resin DLM detail part Deflector Housing was snug and precise. I lightly glued it in place with super glue. The clear blue resin Deflector Dish also snugly fit into place, but removed for painting separately.

FORMATION LIGHT, AFT (Bottom, Engineering Hull) A .030 mill hole was drilled into it to fit a .030 mill fiber optic. This will pick up the interior light.

SHUTTLE BAY DOOR AREA

Previously the lighted areas on both sides of the ‘clam shell’ bay doors have been opened up and filled with clear resin. On both sides is a raised detail area that no published plans have accurately illustrated. But by Stern view pictures and slow motion video of the Travel Pod fly by in ST:TMP. There are 4 lit openings (blue) on each side that may function as Tractor Beam emitters or just plane view ports. This was cut from very thin sheet stock (.005) and cemented in place on both sides of the Shuttle Bay Doors. Then the Shuttle Bay Doors (kit part # 16) where cemented into place. Two small bits (2mm x 1mm) of plastic strip was cemented to the doors near the bottom (See ST:V during the Barricade Shuttle Bay landing scene)

Shuttle Bay Control Room: (glows red when lit up) Previously the kit plastic was left non opaqued in the interior area of this. I will with an airbrush spray paint the exterior with a clear red. Then cut as a masks with tape for the control room windows. Then opaque with a black paint. I’ll leave this mask in place though out painting.

MORE SMALL DETAILS & BUMPS?

There are some very small 3D rectangular details (1mm x 1.5mm) on the Engine Support Pylons on on the outboard side of the Warp Engines be low the grill Flux Chillers on the studio model and illustrated on the ST:TMP cut-a-way poster. Eight are located going up the support pylon (inboard panel both sides) and nine on each side of the Warp Engines. ( I assume these are emergency explosive blow off panels for plasma ruptures ect.)

That’s it for details, except for a few fiber optics used for position lights here and there that are best left off during the painting. The next Log Entry will start on unwanted light leaks opaquing and a neat little tool that will make perfectly round small masks for painting over the ports and windows.

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