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Pics #6, #7, #8 show the fairly rough finish of the entire hull. It all agreed with my impression of the comic page image. #8
shows how it stacks up against the original profile. The use of the styrene ribs allows you to apply just a bit too much putty and then carefully sand down to the white sticking through the putty.
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Pics #9, #10, #11 show how the final shape had to be refined. I used auto body touch up putty (Dynatron Glazing & Spot Putty
a 1lb. tube might last a lifetime) which is the red stuff. Since the body putty is not really structural, when I needed to build up something I used Milliput and that's the greenish stuff. Note in #10
you can make out most of the drill holes that make it through to the other side. This includes all those wacky body contours and body lines. Unfortunately, wacky or not, that's what gives the craft its
character and so, must slavishly be attended to.
Also note in general, the use of primer to help figure out where the problems are. Prime and spot putty, prime and spot putty--
probably about 8 go-rounds. I am using auto-body primer made for finishing fiberglass. Not for durability, but it seems to build up nicely, when you need it to and can go quite thin. It sands and
feathers nicely and very importantly, it is flexible and works very well on styrene when you're at the finishing stage. Right now I'm using an Omega brand of body primer-- there used to be an easily
found Nu-Kote that had the same stock number as the DuPont type that Mr. Merriman recommends and it really did work better than anything else. Alas, it has proved elusive in my little town, but I am
still looking.
onto part 3
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